Ruffled Babydoll Collar Linen Dress
This is my first Mood Fabrics make as a Mood Sewing Network Blogger! I've really been enjoying the oversized collar trend currently. So many brands have incorporated this trend within their own brand DNA; one of my favorite uses is Ganni's oversized collars with ruffles and stud detailing.
1. 2.5 Yards of Mood's Black Medium Weight Linen (SKU: 310659)
2. 3/8'' Silver Round Nailheads (SKU: 10380)
3. Black Fusible or Sew-In Interfacing
4. 4 Black Buttons (to finish the cuffs)
1. Front Dress Bodice (on fold)
This was cut on the fold, bust and waist darts are sewn in for shaping.
2. Back Bodice x 2 (with zipper seam allowances)
I inserted a zipper at the center back for easy on-and-off. Back waist darts are sewn.
To create a puff sleeve, use the slash and spread technique. The more you spread, the more volume your sleeves will have.
There are two collar pieces (that goes from the center front to the center back). To create the collar pattern, trace your front bodice + back bodice neckline, draw a rough draft of a collar that points outwards from the center front and back. To check the correct collar position, be sure true your neckline seams.
5. Ruffle (for collar)
Ruffles are created through the gathering of extra fabric. (Perimeter of your collar pattern x 2) x 1.5 cm (remember to add your seam allowances!)
Cuffs are comprised of two components, the rectangular fabric (width x length of your bicep) and a continuous lap. Because the cuff is the length of your bicep, you will need enough ease/space so it's easy to take on and off. This is achieved through cutting a slit in the sleeve. To protect the raw edges of this slit, a continuous lap piece is used for a clean finish. It essentially acts like a binding.
(Don't forget to interface your cuff piece to provide more structure)
I used Mood's Medium-Weight Black Linen for this project. Linen is one of my favorite fabrics to wear due to how comfortable it is to wear and how breathable it is. But, it notoriously wrinkles as soon as you look at it and it frays quite easily too. To make your life easier, here are some tips:
1. Please wash and dry your linen fabric before you sew!
I always wash on a gentle spin with cold water. I dry in my dryer, but try to catch it before it is completely dry to minimize wrinkles. You want to ensure all the shrinkage of the fabric happens BEFORE you sew, or else sometimes it shrinks so much that you won't even be able to wear what you made. Also, I try to buy a little extra fabric every time JUST in case.
2. French seams all the way
Typically, the raw seams of clothing are finished with a serger. This method wraps up the raw seams with threads to prevent fraying. But, I find that sometimes linen still frays despite this method. Because of this, I always try to finish my garments with a French seam. This technique ensures there are NO raw seams exposed. All the raw edges are hidden within the French seam and the results are so nice and neat.
3. Always iron/press your fabrics before you cut.
This is so boring- I know. But, it's so crucial. Linen wrinkles so much that if you don't flatten it out, the pattern pieces you cut out will be so inaccurate. Save yourself the headache later on and iron before you sew!
Disclaimer: Black Linen Fabric and Silver Nailheads were gifted to me by Mood Fabrics, but all opinions are my own. All other materials were purchased with my own money.